Crossing the Peru-Chile Border as a Woman

I promised to blog for a cause for International Women’s Day. In the days leading up to today, I thought of all the strong, inspirational women I knew… and felt fearful and weak in comparison as I started my trip down south from Huancayo to San Pedro de Atacama in Chile. It was going to take over 50 hours to get from one place to the other via three buses, which turned out to be four, that arrived late at each destination. I imagined I would use all those extra hours to think about this blog post, but traveling is exhausting, especially when you’re on the verge of fear.

I was afraid about traveling alone as a woman, meeting the wrong people, turning into one of the tragic tales that grace the front cover of daily newspapers and being a victim of the fallibility of developing countries. I’m neither a traveler nor an adventurer; I prefer to settle in and make myself a cozy nook in another country. I chose to purchase tickets from more reputable bus companies, put a lock on my backpack and sleep with my foot slipped through the backpack strap, but there are no guarantees here.

Thankfully, I made it from one end of the Andes to the other smoothly and in one piece even though I can only catch around 50% of what Chileans (and Spaniards and Cubans) say because they speak so quickly. I wondered why I was worried in the first place and am trying to convince myself that the trip back in two weeks will be easier now that I know what to expect. On the way over the Peru-Chile border in a shady-looking mafia car, one of the men I was traveling with told me I was brave for traveling alone. Maybe I really was brave if a person can be brave and afraid at the same time. Today, I want to recognize all brave female travelers and adventurers who aren’t afraid of taking risks, being alone and living without plans.

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Comments (16)

  • I don't think you can actually be brave and NOT be afraid (I think if you are, it is actually called "stupidity" or "arrogance"). And you are one of the bravest people I know–it takes bravery even to carve out a nook for yourself in a foreign country. Well done–and good luck on the return!

  • You are brave! Courage is doing something even if you're afraid. It doesn't mean a lack of fear. I have traveled on my own, and some of the situations I got into were not ideal. Still, lone travel helped me gain a little more faith in the world. I wouldn't have made it without help from strangers. It was worth it. On the other hand, I wasn't traveling through a developing country. Stay safe! What are you doing in Chile?

    • I’m here in Chile for a conference!

      T, you’re so right about help from strangers! I was afraid to talk to anyone during the trip because I tend to be gullible and overly trustworthy, but when I opened up to some people near the end, I ended up meeting a Peruvian who’s working in Chile and we became friends! She really helped me out during the trip and I’m sure that we’ll stay in touch!

  • I have a friend who was a famous singer years ago. She'd been famous for many years when I met her and asked her if she still got nervous when she went on stage. She told me that she was often nervous or afraid, but preferred to call it "confidence with butterflies."

    I never forgot that. I always liken the "stage" to whatever adventure I am facing at the time. Your stage was your 50+ hour adventure. You exhibited confidence in preparing yourself for it and doing it. The butterflies are what kept you on your toes and alert of the dangers.

    Hope there was some part of that adventure that you actually enjoyed …

    • So true, Sherry! I was definitely extra aware during the trip. I did end up enjoying the beautiful trip by the coast and through the Andes. In fact, by the second half of it, I realized that 2 days of traveling wasn’t so long after all!

      I love the analogy of stage fright. In the same way, I bet there are some experienced travelers who still feel nervous about passing through certain areas. Never thought of that!

  • Gorgeous post and well done. So glad you safe! STAY safe.
    I do recall being scared and exhilarated when I travelled alone and did exactly what you did with the foot on the backpack , one eye open, whilst 'sleeping' but I never travelled to where you travelled.

  • Nice post Samantha and congratulations on a successful trip south to San Pedro, I hope you enjoyed it. I think it's pretty brave to undertake a 50 hour bus ride, I don't know if I would be scared of it, but I sure wouldn't want to be on that many buses for that amount of time. It's always a great thing to go out of your element and throw yourself into something that makes you a bit uncomfortable, nice work!

    • You are so right! It was about time that I shook things up and stepped out of my comfort zone again. =) I was in Chile for a conference and, aside from the trip down south, the conference itself was also a huge learning experience! It was a challenge to communicate in Spanish with people from all over South America who often used tricky terminology that people only use in academia! =P

      Nice to hear from you and glad we're in touch. =)

  • I came here to say just what other people have already said – being afraid doesn't mean you aren't brave!

    I haven't gone the whole way by myself, but did do the border hop from Tacna into Arica alone. My nephew took the bus trip down with me, but they wouldn't let him out of Peru because his passport was in such bad shape, so I had to leave him in Tacna and go the rest of the way on my own. It all happened so fast, I didn't have time to be afraid – but I was really leery about being ripped off in Chile because those peso exhange rates just throw me for a loop.

    Glad you made all safe and sound. 🙂

    • Thanks, Kelly! Your border-hop article really helped! I'm really glad I was forced to do the trip across this time, so I'm familiar with the route when I need to border hop in the future. =)

      For me, the leery part was when the guy who helped us decide between colectivo or omnibus at the Tacna station asked for our "bondad" before letting us go. =P

  • I especially appreciated the comment regarding getting past stereotypes to appreciate others.

    What an incredible location for a meeting of the minds.

    • Thank you so much for stopping by, C! =) I think you were referring to my next post: A Global Community in the Desert. Indeed, the only way everyone at that conference was able to make such a deep connection was through the breaking of barriers and the location made all the difference. =)

      Hope to see you here again soon! =)

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