The Señor de los Milagros, Miracle Giver

Every October, the country turns purple for mes morado (purple month) in honor of the Señor de los Milagros (the Lord of Miracles). Its history dates back to the 1600s to an Angolan slave in Lima.

Señor de los Milagros
Students wake up early to prepare woodchip "carpets" before the Señor de los Milagros arrives.
The Señor de los Milagros is a painting of Christ crucified that withstood the years. In the mid-1600s, an anonymous Angolan slave painted the image of Christ in expression of his faith on an ordinary adobe wall of a building where the Angolan brotherhood in the area would meet. There wasn’t anything special about the wall or the painting until 1655 when a terrible earthquake occurred. There were thousands of deaths and destroyed buildings, including the building of the Angolan brotherhood, yet the wall and the painting remained entirely intact without the slightest crack.

This very wall would survive over three centuries to the present day. Soon after the first miraculous occurrence, the viceroy ordered the wall destroyed after noticing all the people worshipping it with what seemed like pagan rituals, but strange things would happen to every person that approached the wall with the intention of destroying it or erasing the painting. A painter started trembling and felt goosebumps in fear when he approached the painting. A soldier witnessed the image of Christ become more beautiful and Christ’s crown turn green. People began protesting as they heard about these new miracles and the order was eventually revoked.

Alfombras del Señor de los Milagros
The Señor de los Milagros procession is about to trample the woodchip "carpets" on its way to the church.
In 1687, a tsunami destroyed the chapel they had constructed in front of the Señor de los Milagros. Yet again, the painting endured untouched. It was at this point that the Catholic Church recognized its sacredness and began a procession in its honor. They carried an oil-based replica through the streets of Lima, asking Christ to pacify nature’s wrath.

The procession has been an annual event since then. It happens all over Peru and around the world, including Australia, Egypt, Italy, and the United States to name a few countries. Here in Huancayo, companies and schools wake up early in the morning to prepare “carpets” of woodchips along the procession path as the Señor de los Milagros makes a roundtrip pilgrimage to and from the central Catholic church at the main plaza. It’s also tradition to eat turrón (a nougat-type dessert) during purple month — as the story goes, Doña Pepa, an African slave, dreamed of the recipe the night that the Señor de los Milagros cured her of paralysis.

What is the largest tradition, procession, or parade in your city?

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Comments (33)

  • Sounds so interesting Samantha!

    Just to be part of the ‘Purple month’ seems fascinating! And I do marvel at the painting that remained intact even after going through so much- truly as if it was protected and magical!

    Love your informative post about Peru! It sure makes us want to visit the place and be a part of such awesome places, festivals and occasions.

    Thanks for sharing 🙂

    • Isn’t it such a beautiful story?! =) I hadn’t thought about the “magic” behind it all, but that’s probably what attracted me to it in the first place!

      I’m so glad I could share a piece of Peru with you, Harleena! Thanks so much for your comment. =)

  • Thank you for sharing that is a beautiful parade, in El Salvador they have a big one for Easter time. I have to ask my grandmother or details : )

  • They have some of the coolest traditions there in that country Samantha. I remember one about the lady that they celebrate and have a parade for her as well.

    That is a fabulous story and how that one very wall survived even natural disasters would definitely make me a believer had I not already been one. That’s truly amazing. I had no idea they celebrated that here in the states. I’m wondering where since I’ve never heard of that here in my area before.

    You always share some of the neatest things about Peru.

    Hope you are doing well!

    ~Adrienne

    • Aww, it means a lot to me that you remember that other post on Santiago, Adrienne! =) It makes me even more excited to share about the culture and traditions here. =)

      I also had no idea that they celebrated this around the world! There was this really cute picture on Wikipedia of the Señor de los Milagros followers in purple and carrying the painting in Australia. There were so few of them, but how amazing that they brought the tradition there too! =)

  • Wow that’s really interesting. I’m fascinated by Christian art and this was something I’ve never heard of or seen.

    Thanks Samantha for always sharing something new and interesting with your humble readers.

    Bryce

  • Hi Samantha, This is amazing! Your story reminds me of St. Paul’s remaining untouched during the Blitzkreig in WWII when all the buildings around it were destroyed.

    I would definitely love to see that work of art someday!

    But why purple?

    • I hadn’t thought about that parallel, Carolyn. That’s a pretty miraculous tale too. =)

      And good question about the purple! I wanted to include the anecdote, but my post was just getting too long. =P There was a devotee from Guayaquil who moved to Lima and took charge of caring for the chapel and making sure the tradition continued. She wore a purple habit and others began to wear purple in her honor! =) So random eh? I love reading about how traditions develop!

  • Wow haha, how cool. It’s crazy to believe that that painting survived all those different circumstances.

    Here, the single biggest parade, at least recently, would be the Halloween parade. Unfortunately, I couldn’t go to it because I had to work, but hopefully by this time next year I won’t be working at all!

    • Haha! =) That’s so funny! I’ve never heard of a Halloween parade in my hometown of Vancouver in Canada. Now that I reflect on this, I think our biggest parades are the gay pride parade and the Chinese New Year parade. Do you have these where you are? =)

      Can’t wait for your business to take off, so you can attend to Halloween parade and visit me here in Peru. Hehe! =)

      • Haha for sure, oddly enough I’m reading a memoir about someone who visited a lot of South American countries, including Peru, so maybe I really will come there eventually.

        I know we have a gay pride parade, but I don’t think we have the Chinese new year Parade. Or well, we might, but I haven’t heard of it. :p

  • Wow! Did that post bring back memories. My first trip to Peru was during the mes morado , but at that time, I knew nothing about it. I learned about it while riding a bus to downtown Lima. The closer the bus approached downtown, the more one saw people completely dressed in Purple until I was virtually surrounded by thousand of purple dressed in purple robes for the religious procession..It was an incredible sight that left me completely bewildered. Only later did I find out what was going on and the reason for that spectacular display of color.Thank you, Samantha, for helping me to rekindle those memories.

    • I can imagine, Vinny! You had me reminiscing about when I first arrived too! It was during Fiestas Patrias and they were celebrating Santiago here in the Andes too. And then to see Mes Morado a few months later — it made me love Peru. =) I remember seeing all of the purple for the first time from my apartment 4 stories up. It was a narrow street, so it was truly amazing to see it filled with people in purple! Thanks for sharing memories with me. =)

  • I love parades! Unfortunately I don’t get out to see my city’s parade most of the time, but the one I saw this year was unimpressive. 🙁 So much for that. Lol…

    Hey, Samantha, when you have a chance, you might want to stop in at my place and see a little something that’s waiting for you…

    • Aww, bummer! You would absolutely LOVE Peru then, JP! There seem to be parades ALL the time, including the parade for the flag-raising every Sunday here in the Andes! =)

      Ooh! Can’t wait to check it out!

  • Samantha, what a lovely story. Just the image of the Angolan slave painting this mural and the way it’s endured earthquakes, tsumanis and other destruction over the centuries seems truly miraculous. The closest to this that I can think of is the celebration of the Virgin of Guadalupe in Mexico on December 12th, the date on which the Virgin is reputed to have first appeared to the poor peasant, Juan Diego. That day is a national holiday (despite constitutional separation of church and state) and the country celebrates. Throughout the year and especially around that date, many people make pilgrimages to la Basilica de Guadalupe and the mantel she gave Juan Diego (veracity in dispute) is displayed over the Altar Mayor.

    I wonder how many other Latin American countries have similar religious celebrations. In both Peru and Mexico, it was the underdog – the slave or poor Indian peasant – who was the recipient of some divine gift or visitation. Theories abound, but the fact is that these conquered nations needed a reason such as a sign from Heaven to survive and fight back against the Spaniards who had enslaved them.

    • Wow! I had no idea about the Virgin of Guadalupe celebrations in Mexico. It’s coming up pretty soon!

      I see what you mean about these stories providing hope and granting strength to the people. And I can imagine how that continues to today — the majority of the population live by humble means and they are also the truly faithful who keep these traditions going! I guess we all need something to have faith in. =)

  • Right off the bat, the one that I can think off is the Black Nazarene procession that’s held in the town of Quiapo in Manila every January. The crowd is just so thick with devotees that it’s a miracle that the huge Black Nazarene manages to make its way out from Quiapo church, around the streets of Quiapo and back again. Part of the reason is that the devotees believe that the image of the Black Christ (hence the name) has healing powers and devotees would often try to get their hankies or any piece of cloth to wipe the image so that they could, in turn, use it on their sick relatives to make them better.

    • Wow! I’ve never heard of that procession before, Adeline! And to think that it happens in Manila! Your description of the packed roads and huge Black Nazarene sound very similar to the procession here. Even the healing powers of the Black Christ sound reminiscent — The Señor de los Milagros is often called the Black Christ too because he was painted in darker shades. AND since the Señor de los Milagros supposedly cured Doña Pepa, a lot of people believe in its healing powers as well. =) What a coincidence!

  • Very fascinating story, Sam!

    It’s so real and touching the pride that is found there. You always share with us the most intriguing and heart-tugging elements of the area.

    I like many before me find it amazing that the painting has withheld such detrimental circumstances. Since I am in the part of my life where I think that nothing happens by chance, I would tend to lean more to the fact that there is definitely reason as to why this is the case. I think it gives the people hope of something much bigger than we are.

    Thank you so much for sharing this. Bless you, my friend. 😉

    • Aww! Thanks for saying so, Deeone! I love heart-tugging stories myself. Now that I think about it, I do try to dramatize. =P

      In many ways, I find myself believing in the same — that nothing happens by chance. =) There is a rhyme and reason for everything and I love how you interpret this story as one of hope! =)

  • I love learning more about Peruvian culture through your blog, Sam!

    Philadelphia has a lot of parades, but I think the biggest and most unique to the city is the Mummer’s Parade. It’s on New Year’s Day every year, but I can’t tell you much more about it because I’ve just never been able to get into it. Maybe I should do some research!

  • This is definitely interesting. Besides a charity walk or marathon I haven’t been a part or a live witness to any parade or procession as such. In college though we were a part of a parade but that was another story. What I love about these is the sense of community, the oneness and the sense of moving for a common cause or a thought. The whole idea is just fascinating at times!

    • Exactly, Hajra! The sense of community is what attracts me to these types of grand processions! =) But you’re also right that I had a similar feeling in marathons or running races in Canada. =) I guess we can all create that same feeling!

  • It’s always interesting to read about the different customs celebrated in Peru. I know I’ve said it before, but it’s true. It allows us to live in Peru vicariously through you when you write about these events. Thank you for sharing with us your life in Peru.

  • I was born in Peru, and now living in NYC for over 40 years, but I will never forget going to the procession with my parents, I try and go back home every October for the procession, and every time it overwhems me to see the devotion and faith from the people. I love when even the president comes out and salutes the image.
    I encourage people to visit this beautiful country, and visit El Senor de los Milagros , Las Nazarenes, his home is beautiful.

    • So nice to meet you, Norma! I love getting in touch with Peruvian expats. =) Wow! It sounds like this event is an important tradition for you. I hope that when I move to Vancouver, I can regularly come back to Peru like you do!

      Thanks so much for your beautiful comment!

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